Colmar and Paris!
Bonjour!
From Switzerland, I spent the weekend pet sitting again for Billie and Bingo in Divonne-les-Bains, giving me time to relax, exercise, and get laundry done. The home is only about 10 miles from Geneva, Switzerland, a hub for international humanitarian agencies. I was able to figure out trains and buses to visit the International Museum of the Red Cross and Red Crescent. In this time of such uncertainty in our world, with significant and ongoing wars and conflicts, and In light of the recent killing of Red Crescent workers in Gaza, I felt it was important to visit to pay my respects and to learn more about their mission: Defending Human Dignity, Restoring Family Links (particualry during armed conflicts), and Reducing Natural Risks (e.g. impact of earthquakes, hurricanes). The museum was so informative, the organization’s history is significant, their work awe-inspiring. It was grounding for me.
Colmar, France, in the Alsace region in the northeast of France, was my next stop. The people here identify strongly as French, despite, and in lieu of, heavy German influence. The region has alternated between German and French control over many centuries and there is definitely evidence of both cultures in the architecture, art, language, and food. Colmar is known for its wine culture (mostly whites, including Reislings, Gewurztraminers, Pinot Gris). I included alink here for those with interest in wine. At first, I was a bit disappointed in Colmar, as it was pretty evident that, although it is a village/city with a significant history and regional pride, the “Old Town” is now primarily a tourist destination. According to a local I met, over 2 million people visit annually for the Christmas Markets. Christmas decorations go up in November and remain up through March when they’re swapped out for Easter decorations, that remain up April to November. They are full-on Easter now! You’ll see some photos that reflect this, including one of the most gigantic rabbits I’ve ever seen. I learned that Alsatian is sadly a dying language, with only 10% of the population still speaking it. He is 28 and cannot communicate directly with his 84 year old grandfather who only speaks Alsatian, he requires his grandmother to interpret. Since I have ancestry from this area (someone fought with Napoleon), I wanted to learn more, so I took a guided tour. This did give me a different perspective and the guide encouraged me to visit the Hansi Village and Its Museum, which I loved. Hansi was a whimsical illustrator, cartoonist, and artist from Colmar. His work incorporated the landscapes, architecture, folklore, and politics of Colmar and Alsace. So much more to say about his art, and his politics. I also visited the Musée du Jouet (Toy Museum) which was really interesting. I then strolled through La Petite Venise (Little Venice) and grabbed a few photos. And, of course, I had to try Tartes Flambee (Flammekueche), a regional culinary specialty that looks a lot like pizza, but is distinctly unique. Alsace is also known for their bratwurst and sauerkraut, but I didn’t go there. All said and done, 1 day would have been enough to see and experience Colmar.
Next, Paris! On a whim, I pivoted plans and headed to Paris instead of Luxembourgh. That’s the beauty of this trip, I can flex as the whims strike. Paris is the most beautiful and avant-garde city in the world, IMHO. For me, it is all about the art, architecture, food, culture, history and how it has shaped so much for the rest of the world. I had perfect weather - high 60s, not a cloud in the sky. To walk the streets of Paris is magical. I walked and walked and walked until I dropped, stopping at sidewalk cafes for an afternoon Aperol Spritz or glass of wine, finding parks to sit and people watch, and to soak up the experience. I wish I had more time in Paris, though I did cover some impressive ground. I’m still reveling and wishing I was still there. I’m already looking for Trusted Housesitter opportunities for the future!
I arrived by train at Gare de Lyon, a masterful work of architecture in and of itself. It was just a few minutes walk to my hotel, the Courtyard Gare de Lyon Marriot, with an amazing view of the train station and city from my 15th floor room. It pays to be a loyalty member and to be ask for what you want! That afternoon, I walked up the Seine to Notre Dame Cathedral. Since the destructive fire in 2019, they have managed to reopen to the public, although there is still so much ongoing restoration work. I was fortunate enough to easily get entrance and avoided what I’ve heard can be very long lines (see below re my offer of tips for Paris travel, that includes ways to avoid the long lines at Paris atractions). Of course, it is stunningly beautiful. Evening prayers (in French) were underway, which was a neat experience. The organist was playing, choir singing.
The next day, I visited Musee D’Orsay, one of the most beautiful museums in the world, again IMHO. The exhibit “Les Artes du Rue” (“Art is in the Street), was phenomenal. The exhibit illustrates the world of Parisian poster art from the late 19th century. The posters were, in general, advertisements, promoting entertainment, commerce, and the social and political issues of the time. I was at Musee D’Orsay in 2016 and the exhibit then was Van Gogh, with Starry Night as the highlight. It is an absolute must when you visit Paris, I believe it could never disappoint. You may ask why nothing on The Louvre. While it is also a must-see, I have seen it twice now, and didn’t have the bandwidth to fit it in. If you do visit Paris and haven’t been there, then be sure it’s on your list. I did capture a photo from my walk along the Seine.
Ater the museum visit, I walked through the Saint Germain-des-Pres neighborhood in the 6th Arrondissement. It’s artsy and upscale and where many famous authors and intellectuals spent time - Ernest Hemingway, James Baldwin, Jean-Paul Sartre, among others. You can feel a vibe as you walk the neighborhood. I had lunch at the outside cafe, Le Relais Odeon, on the recommendation that the steak frites/steak au poivre was one of the best in Paris. It was amazing, to say the least! While there, a massive protest regarding the changes the French government has made regarding retirement age and pensions marched through. There were thousands of protesters on megaphones, walking and in vehicles, and hundreds of National Police. I was told by the waitress, “there is always protest going on in Paris for one thing or another”. I then walked a very long way to find the “best croissant” in Paris at Maison d’Isabelle, it did not disappoint.
On Friday, I headed off to Le Marais , the old Jewish neighborhood in Paris, which spans the 3rd and 4th Arrondissements. This is the area I stayed in when visiting in 2016 and I loved it’s charm then and was equally charmed this time. After walking through Place des Vosges, Paris’ oldest, peaceful, and elegant squares, I found my way back to Sacha Finkelstadjt on Rue des Rosiers, a Jewish bakery that has become famous for the “best crepe in Paris”. I really wanted the Nutella with bananas, but it was lunchtime, so I got a savory crepe and ate it in a nearby park and playground where it was really fun to listen to the chatter and people watch. On Rue des Rosiers, you will also find “the best Falafal in Paris” at Chez Janou or L’As du Fallafel (they’re right near each other and their competition serves them both well). I opted for the crepe, I couldn’t possibly do both. There’s always next time for the falafel. The highlight of the day was a return to Musee International Picasso, a hidden gem in Le Marais. The temporary exhibit was L'art 'dégénéré'(Degenerate Art: Modern art on trial under the Nazis). The exhibition focuses on the Nazi regime's systematic attack on modern art, highlighting Pablo Picasso, and many other artists, particularly Jewish artists, as emblematic "degenerate" artists. It examines the 1937 "Entartete Kunst" (Degenerate Art) propaganda exhibition in Munich, where hundreds of these artists works were displayed to provoke public disgust and denounce them as threats to German purity. It goes on to discuss the persecution of the Jewish artists, including deaths in concentration camps, and the destruction of so much priceless art. Fascinating exhibit.
Although I was pretty tapped out from all the walking, I did find my way to the Coulee Verte, in the 12th Arrondissement. It is the world's first elevated park built on a former railway line, and is the model for the New York City High Line. I intended to use Velib, Paris’s bike sharing system, so I could experience the entire park, but I decided not to as the path was pretty crowded with walkers. I will try to do so on my next visit. Very near my hotel is Rue de Cremieux, which you’ll see advertised as a unique street in Paris, with colored houses, and a photographer’s dream. To me, it was pretty underwhelming, perhaps it was the time of day and the lighting as the pictures online are amazing. Worth it to see since I was right there, but I’d say not something to go out of your way for.
This time in Paris, I was mostly on foot, but I did take the Batobus (water taxi). It gets you on the Seine, is hop on/hop off, and stops at major points of interest and you can walk from there. Paris is extensive, so it’s a good way to be sure you take in the major sites, particularly if your time is more limited. I have a tip sheet from my 2016 visit to Paris that I will update - if you’re planning a trip to Paris, let me know and I’d be happy to share it, as you can tell, I LOVE PARIS!
Off now to Essen, Germany, for a 9 day house and pet sit for three kitties through Trusted Housesitters. I’m hoping to explore via some day trips. And I’ve got a 10 day streak going with Babbel to learn some conversational German as I’ll be in the country till the end of April.
Stay tuned! Au Revoir!
Laurie